Farm workers on the Somerset Levels have lubricated their thirsty throats at this Godney pub for centuries, so when Tamsin and Ben Costigan took over The Sheppey they were determined to maintain its position at the heart of the community. A renovation using eclectic materials and furnishings, paired with superior food, saw the duo realise their dream.

The Sheppey is a dark horse with an exterior that gives no hint of what lies within: it’s part cider house, part boutique hotel. Low-beamed ceilings in the bar contrast with high white walls in the barn, while cosy booths, art exhibitions championing local talent, and 1950s furniture meld with guitars that are waiting to be played.

Music matters here – evidenced in the background mix of jazz, funk and blues, and the live bands that grace the stage regularly.

In the kitchen, head chef Callum O’Doherty whips up modern European food with a Somerset twist. Try the longstanding house classic: fish stew made with smoked haddock, mussels, cod and salmon, served with fresh bread, parmesan and romesco, or dishes from an evolving menu that’s punctuated with local flavours. The line-up of inventive desserts includes punchy flavours as found in the raspberry, lychee and prosecco cheesecake.

Accompanying the edibles are fine wines, a roster of local beers and ales (APA Sunshine Reggae from Somerton is a favourite), and a bar stocked with exceptional cask ciders.

Trencherman’s tip

The riverside terrace offers the chance to spot voles, kingfishers and otters.