The Ilchester Arms

Chef Paul Brinicombe and his partner (and front-of-house pro) Ariana Ruth have turned a 16th-century pub in the quaint village of Symondsbury into something rather special.

The thatched pub’s reinvention centres around locally sourced, pared-back, ingredient-driven food, on a menu that’s chalked up on the wall and where dishes are gratifyingly crossed off when sold out.

Tables in the casual dining room are furnished with white tablecloths, crisp cotton napkins, unfussy cutlery and miniature coloured vases filled with fresh cottage flowers. It’s a makeover that’s grid-friendly and authentic in equal measure.

Chef-owner Paul (whose CV includes a stint as head chef at the Royal Clarence Hotel) traces his culinary inspiration back to a childhood spent in his grandfather’s veg patch and watching his grandmother pickling produce. It’s little surprise, then, that his dishes have a field-to-fork vibe, as well as a contemporary edge that keeps the compilations exciting.

Cheffed-up pub classics rub along nicely with Paul’s more original creations such as whole roast lemon sole, sauce vierge and crispy oysters; Isle of Wight tomato flatbread with white bean hummus and green sauce; and Colmers Ale-brined chicken schnitzel with cabbage slaw and aioli.

Trencherman’s tip

The drinks menu is as interesting as the food. A line-up of natural wines features alongside expertly crafted cocktails, designed exclusively for the pub by mixologist supremo Jack Wareing.