Petty Fours in Truro is a stimulating spot for dinner. With just 20 covers and an out-of-the-way location, the restaurant is somewhat hidden, so take this as your heads up that a trip here is absolutely worth the effort

Chef-patron Alfred Petty (hence the restaurant name) crafts refined dishes in two- or three-course set menus or eight-course tasting menus. Naturellement, each includes petits fours, as well as amuse bouche such as crisp cornets of chicken liver parfait with chilli jam sweetness and tiny tartlets of garlicky cream cheese topped with wafer-thin sliced grapes.

In contemporary culinary style, the complementary bread is served as a course and during our visit took the form of a springy onion focaccia bun served with smoked butter.

As one might expect at such a bijou restaurant, the menu is limited, but that’s obviously a Good Thing as it reveals everything to be crafted from scratch.

Careful attention to detail and harmony is evident across the offering and seen in starters such as a light curation of pink, yellow and purple beetroots. Alfred roasts, pares and pickles the roots before artfully arranging them with pear, fig, walnuts and fresh leaves. The elegant ensemble is served drizzled with peppery green olive oil.

Four mains provide enough options to meet diners’ needs and include dishes such as short-rib tortellini and mushrooms in beef broth. This comprises hand-shaped pasta parcels, stuffed with tender slow-cooked beef and paddling in a hot broth of fungi – its umami richness punctured by the addition of tiny pickled mushrooms.

Desserts (an optional cheese course is also available) take the form of confections such as an elegant lemon meringue pie with impeccable honeycomb decoration, and chocolate delice with crème-fraîche ice cream, crumb and caramel shards.

Just as good as the cooking is the service from restaurant manager Edgard Helle, who has a 30-year career at upscale London restaurants under his belt. Edgard worked closely with chef Bruno Loubet, and was GM during the launch of The Pilgrm Hotel in Paddington. A desire for a change of scene and a more family-friendly lifestyle in Cornwall led him to respond to Alfred’s job ad and the result of their combined talents is so much more than the sum of its parts.

Trencherman’s tip

Once the last chocolate truffle has been scoffed, the pleasure continues as guests are given a parting gift of homemade granola, stretching the evening’s pleasures into the next morning’s breakfast.