Halwyn

This game-changing new opening on the north Cornwall coast puts a bold spin on casual dining in a wild, rural location.

Founder Will Eustice has created a strikingly good destination for gathering and feasting, housed on his family’s farmland near Newquay.

The eating takes place in a large open-plan restaurant built around exposed oak beams, a cosy log burner and sweeping countryside views. It’s here that chef Matt Haggath (ex-Idle Rocks and Savoy Grill) serves a casual menu rooted in fire, flame (the Josper charcoal grill is the workhorse of the kitchen) and provenance.

Top-notch ingredients include beef from the Trevowah herd, reared a few fields away by Will’s cousin. Warm up for supper with winning snacks such as potted beef brisket with beef-fat toast, horseradish and tarragon, or smoked lamb-shoulder fritters with romesco, pine nut, basil and whipped ricotta.

Meaty mains – think big-cut steaks; barbecue spatchcock chicken with radish and shallot salad, chimichurri and fries; and pork chops with garlic and sage marinade plus seasonal greens and barbecue mustard ketchup – take star turns on the menu. Fish dishes, such as pan-seared skate fillet with lardons, crispy kale, onion and mushroom velouté and chive oil, are equally fresh and carefully sourced.

Halwyn is a space for gathering. For many visitors the vehicle for connection is the whizzy golf offering (a separate entity from the restaurant) comprising a state-of-the-art Trackman driving range and a contemporary take on mini golf. No expertise is required as this is all about having fun – both on the range and in the restaurant.

Trencherman’s tip

Gather with like-minded gourmets at Halwyn’s feast nights, which run throughout the year.