Ebrington Arms

Since taking over the Ebrington Arms, chef-patron Tom Mackins and head of hospitality Katie Hoyland have transformed a village inn into an ambitious dining spot that still feels like a cosy local.

Tom spent his formative years in Cornwall, including time working with Kevin Viner, before cooking in the Middle East – an experience that still informs his playful approach to flavour.

Seasonal ingredients from nearby farmers and fishermen, supplemented by produce from the kitchen garden, underpin the pub’s à la carte and tasting menus.

Unexpected flavour combinations appear in dishes such as flame-cooked brill with mussels, celeriac, grape, lavender and crème fraîche, and cured north-coast mackerel with apple, wasabi and kohlrabi. Dartmoor beef tartare comes with gherkin, egg yolk, crisp chicken skin and black garlic.

Dessert brings its own contrasts, with dark chocolate and peanut crumb offset by sea-buckthorn sorbet and sesame brittle.