The Pheasant

There’s little about The Pheasant’s traditional village-pub exterior to suggest the calibre of cooking within. Yet this unassuming spot, tucked away in St Newlyn East near Newquay, has become something of an insider favourite, drawing chefs and hospitality folk from across Cornwall on their days off.

At the stove is Joshua Bird, formerly of Four Boys in Rock, whose contemporary British cooking puts exceptional ingredients centre stage. The menu changes daily according to what’s coming from Cornwall’s soil and sea, with much of the produce sourced from a network of local growers, farmers and fishermen who share the kitchen’s commitment to sustainable practices.

In the intimate 30-cover dining room, diners can mix and match snacks, small plates and sharing dishes. Expect the likes of crisp pig-hock croquettes with courgette chutney, confit salt cod with kohlrabi and anchovy cream, or locally landed whole megrim sole with lemon and fennel-seed dressing. Slow-grown pork from Somerset’s Gothelney Farm is another favourite, reflecting Joshua’s meticulous approach to sourcing.

Desserts are equally considered, while Holly Ninnes, formerly head of wine at St Austell Brewery, oversees an ever-changing wine list with plenty of opportunities to experiment.

With most of the team living in the village or nearby, The Pheasant retains the warmth and easy familiarity of a proper local pub. Drop in for a pint or settle in for a long lunch: either way, there’s serious cooking to discover behind its modest exterior.